Mega Marina
The run down the coast to Michigan City Indiana was another nice smooth run, the coast was hazy but we didn’t run into any fog banks on the water today. Serenity running a knot slower on our tail got smaller and smaller. We arrived just after lunch and headed to the fuel dock to fill two tanks and empty another. As we headed out to turn left to our slip, Serenity was coming in and the two boats did a slow doe-se-doe in the fairway.
The view coming in was probably the least inviting we’ve found on the journey a reminder of the infrastructure required to support the population here in the breadbasket of the Midwest. Once in, if you could ignore the cooling tower, the marina was quite nice with perhaps the friendliest group of boaters we’ve met yet.
The cooling tower was just across the channel from the marina. We tried not to think about it much.
The view west of the channel was much nicer and we found a very nice beach just east of the marina.
However, the heat (98 F in the sun and 88 in the shade with 100% humidity) kept us from moving much. Eventually I went to drop the trash and found that right next to the marina is a lovely swimming beach, only waded in up to my knees, but boy the water felt good.
We joined Serenity for dinner at the old yacht club right across the parking lot taking advantage of one of the last opportunities for good lake fish.
Miles Today: 50 Total Miles: 3145
Total States: 10
Total Locks: 81
Leaving Grand Haven at sunrise.
Another sunrise, another break wall on the stern. In a way leaving at dawn is good, the pictures of the sunrises have been beautiful, the pictures of the hazy coastline as we run have been not worth wasting electrons.
The run was smooth, the usual patch of fog, we noticed today that the little bass boats don’t always show on the radar as we saw a bunch in the fog. Only by fiddling with enhancement and range were we able to get them to show on the radar, good to know out here in fog country.
As the forecast has the possibility of showers in the afternoon, we made a relatively short run to South Haven. Never having been here it had a surprising number of boats and docks lining the shore. The municipal marina facilities were very nice like all those we’ve seen on this side of the state this trip.
Pulling in we spotted Roger of LeHooker standing on the dock. He told the dockhand to watch out we were stalking him, I told him he’d better learn to hide if that was the case. As there were so many Loopers and a nice lounge area we decided to get together for docktails and to catch up. We hadn’t seen Charis or Serenity since the Looper get togethers in Cape Coral. New to us was the boat Fruitcakes and a couple of boats with an interest in looping who joined us too.
Several of the sailboats returning from their races joined in dancing with the show.
If that wasn’t enough a great duo set up and started a show in the park next to the marina. We wandered over and enjoyed the last half of the show, the highlight was Andy from Fruitcakes who became a part of the show when he walked through with a six pack after a provisioning run.
Andy
We have identified two possible marinas Michigan City and Hammond IN, for leaving the boat while we head home for Labor Day, both will allow us to catch the train into Chicago and rent a car. We decided to head for the first, Michigan City, today to fill up with fuel, so it was off at first light. Serenity headed out right behind us.
Miles Today: 45 Total Miles: 3095
The Coast Guard Station on our way out after breakfast
The fog before breakfast
In spite of the clear conditions in the harbor after our breakfast delay we soon found dense fog on the water. It was a little disconcerting to be able to see boats on the radar less than a mile away, but not be able to put eyes on them. We both stood watch looking for these phantom boats, luckily they were pretty much all fishing which meant they were not moving and we could set a course to avoid them without actually seeing them.
We headed farther out into the lake in hopes of finding a breeze to blow away the fog and a less dense population of fishing boats.
It was a smooth day on the water and by the time we reached Grand Haven, the sun was out which made it quite warm. It got even warmer as we headed up river over a mile to reach the marina. Unfortunately, we were back in brown cloudy river water, so a dip was not the answer.
The south wall of the breakwater as we left the next morning.
Beach on our way in, looked like a great day to be on the beach
After the long day we started looking for supper, nothing popped up as a must do in our electronic search, so we went walking. There were several sidewalk cafés to choose from and we chose the least popular with good results.
We finished the evening watching the musical water fountain across the river from the marina, we invited Wendy and Roger of Le Hooker to join us as our slip was more directly across from the show. The show did rival the Bellagio as promoted. We did not expect this from a small town like Grand Haven, but it speaks to their desire to attract visitors to their waterfront that they have kept this show going and growing for over 50 years. It was a wonderful treat.
Miles Today: 71 Total Miles: 3050
The day was too nice not to take advantage. We had several stops to choose from, but decided to make a long day of it and head for Ludington. One of the considerations was the possibility that we would have to hold for weather the following day and Ludington offered several possible distractions for a rainy day.
Point Betsie Light
Sand dune along Michigan’s Western Shore. We started seeing these after turning the corner past Mackinaw City and are still seeing them as far south as Grand Haven.
The seas held until we rounded the point just north of Ludington, then we saw a little bit more wave action, but nothing like we saw out of Mackinaw City.
As we had run 10 hours we decided to treat ourselves to dinner out and headed over to PM Steamers just across the street from the marina where we had a nice dinner with a view of the marina and the channel into the Pere Marquette Lake. Just as our salad course was served I looked out and spotted the car ferry, Badger, coming into port. The restaurant marks this with the ringing of a bell.
Ludington has a nice marina.
Right next to the marina is a park with historical statues. I liked this one the best commemorating the car ferry which originally was built for rail road cars.
Badger at her berth next to the park.
Sunset from the park night one before the rains.
Seeing the Badger was a highlight of our stay in Ludington as I have fond memories of driving to Michigan from the west and taking the car ferry across either at night when we would get a sleeping compartment or in the day to visit my grandparents in Michigan. It is good to see the ferry still running and I hope one day to take it again. But not this trip.
The predicted storm came through after we returned from dinner and were enjoying the evening on the back deck. The rain was so loud, we retired below.
The next day dawned clear in Ludington, but weather south and west and sea reports were confused enough that we decided to remain in port another day. This allowed me to explore and find the yarn shop a few blocks from the marina. It was a nice one, almost too many choices. As I had only packed a few projects aboard and was looking at the end of several, I did indulge.
For dinner the second night we thawed the lake perch we bought in Mackinaw City. This is one of the Captain’s favorite meals. It was good fish in spite of taking three times as long to cook as it should have on the grill (propane must be running low). Before the sun set, we watched an unusual evening fog roll in. The Badger heading out looked like a ghost ship, barely visible through the fog.
The Badger leaving in the morning.
The ghost ship, Badger, leaving in the evening fog.
Setting the alarm the next day, we poked our head out to a marina clouded in fog and went back to sleep. When it was still too foggy to go at 8, we decided to find a good breakfast off the boat to speed the wait. Sure enough, by the time we returned at 9:30 it was clear enough to safely leave shore.
Miles Day 93: 91 Total Miles: 2979
Historic Fishtown a preserved fishing community.
The Captain agreed to forgo miles for the must see (at least on my list) stop of Leland with its historic Fishtown, at least for lunch, so we were up early again and heading out in time to make the 7am bridge opening where we found Cooyon to run with again.
The seas were just gentle reminders of what we experienced two days earlier, nice easy rollers spaced a decent distance apart.
A five hour run put us in Leland at just before noon and we soon decided it was so nice, we’d stay. After checking in we walked across the parking lot to see Fishtown and found Rick’s Cafe right there on the water at the base of a small dam that crossed the river right there in Fishtown. I had another chance to try the whitefish pate that we were introduced to in the North Channel. A walk through town found an ATM, ice cream, wine tasting, and a lovely view of the river above the dam which leads to Lake Leelanaw(sp?) and the town dock with a few boats apparently in for lunch.
Vintage wooden boat on river above dam
Lion’s Share spotted in Leland was the boat that traveled with us our last day on the Erie Canal when we were running before the storm. The chartered captain is still fondly remembered for all the help he provided that day.
We met a few more Loopers on the boat Tata from British Columbia and chatted with them and Le Hooker before dinner.
Sunset over Leland Marina.
The next morning we intended to cast off early, but had been puzzling out how to escape from our corner slip without doing any damage, we agreed that if there was any wind, we would wait for a full crew to help, but thought in no winds we could make it. As there were no winds, we started our preparations and luckily for us, Dave from Cooyon happened by and was enlisted to hold a pivot line. Pretty soon we had a full complement of volunteers helping us off at 7am. Got to love the boating community and how willing they are to help each other out.
Miles Today: 33 Total Miles: 2888
The next day dawned sunny and while the winds were still blowing the wave forecast looked passable at least between the island and the mainland. We elected to make a short run to Mackinaw City. Paul’s friend Ron recommended the newer Straits Harbor Marina, so that’s where we headed.
The marina is only a few years old and aims to be self sustaining with their own wind mills and green technologies. Like the older marina, it is also in the heart of the waterfront. We tied up early enough, in spite of our leisurely start, that we were able to walk across the street for another dose of pasties.
The weather had clearly been an issue for more than just us as we found several looper boats in our marina waiting for a weather window to head out and even more in the neighboring marina. Blue Moon was instrumental in organizing some of us to get together for dinner out at a nice Italian place (which I swear was a nice up north themed furniture store last time I visited Mackinaw City) one night and docktails the next. It was nice meeting new Loopers, sharing stories with others who are making the same journey and seeing Loopers like Twelve Stones who we hadn’t seen for awhile.
A new attraction in Mackinaw City was the retired Coast Guard Icebreaker Mackinaw which I had not seen and which the Captain had been on as a part of the Huron to Mackinac Race festivities as a youngster. This proved to be a nice diversion the second afternoon. A bit of history, the funds to build the ship were rushed through after the bombing of Pearl Harbor in order to keep steel flowing to the factories making equipment for the war effort. More than just walking the decks there were video stations explaining life aboard the vessel and in the engine room a docent explained in detail the innovative (for the time) mechanisms used to break the ice which involved ramming her up on the sheet, then if that wasn’t enough, sloshing ballast back and forth to get the job done. Talk about a rough ride, and in the frigid ice covered lakes? Not a pleasure ride, that’s for sure.
Ice Breaker Mackinaw berthed at a Sheppler dock adjacent to the two marinas.
While the weather window looked marginal, we were tired of sitting. This two days in one port stuff is not our speed, so we were up early in the chilly morning casting off our lines. Cooyon our dock mate for the last few days was out earlier and it was comforting to have some one to follow. The ride was rough and the Captain offered to turn around and head back, but we continued on. There are no starfish suicides to report, but the television did tip, twice, luckily no harm was done.
Cooyon in the line up for the bridge into Round Lake.
Our timing was nearly perfect to make the 1o’clock bridge opening into Round Lake only having to idle in the river for a few minutes along with several other boats. The municipal marina in the heart of town is a busy place and had us on a waiting list. We decided to pump out and fuel up in hopes something would open up. We finally opted to head into Lake Charlevoix after spotting a nice dinghy dock.
The city park behind the municipal marina definitely done in the style of Young, architect of the mushroom houses. Apparently, he pushed for the acquisition of the land for the park.
Irish Boat Works turned out to be a fine place to stop and a short dinghy ride back into town allowed us to inspect the city marina and walk along the main drag. Dinner was a delight at the Stafford Weathervane Inn overlooking the drawbridge, not only could we watch the boats on the river, but the building was one of the renowned mushroom houses of Charlevoix which we hoped to see.
I think I can see our table. Great service, our waitress is a sailboater who has done parts of the loop and will be in the Bahamas this winter. I had a chilled cherry soup that was wonderful.
One of the mushroom houses on Round Lake.
Not sure if this is an actual Young design or a remodel he did or a copy done in his style, but it is lovely.
The next day was not good weather wise again and we took advantage of this and arranged to have some service done. While that went on I did laundry and used the marina’s courtesy ride to provision.
Vintage Chris Craft with vintage dinghy, the Captain had to identify dinghy as I’ve never seen one like this.
The boat houses on Round Lake took the cake, one of these was housing a couple restored wooden boats.
We were joined for a bit after dinner by Wendy and Roger off Le Hooker who are also doing the loop from Florida. We’ve been hopscotching with them since Drummond Island.
Miles Today: 49 Total Miles: 2855
Since our last visit to the island where we walked the docks, I have wanted to return to the island and stay overnight at the marina. It would be my first overnight on the island after several visits by ferry.
Sun rising in the East as we left Drummond Island. There are a lot of little islands up here.
It was back up at dawn and off from Drummond Island to Mackinaw. The forecast was calling for rain, so we didn’t want to be caught in it.
We headed west out of Drummond Harbor dodging many little islands, passed through the Detour Passage, and headed out into the lake for Mackinac Island. We passed many lighthouses and saw several boats heading our direction.
The wind was whipping and the waves were rolling in by the time we turned up into the harbor, the direction of the wind didn’t allow for much protection within the harbor. It was a bit rough getting on and off the boat with a surge of at least a foot, but the docks were well suited and for a boat our height, we could step right on and off without the ladder, which was nice.
The flag straight out indicates a strong wind. The direction here is straight into the harbor, luckily that eventually changed.
No sooner were we tied up than the Captain recognized some old cruising buddies from his days with the Sea Raiders and Club Island down state. They were on an unofficial cruise and we spent some time on the dock with them catching up before dinner. We elected to have an early dinner at the only restaurant we found which had pasties, an up north specialty.
There are horses pulling that wagon, they don’t like to stop for pedestrians, so it is good to watch for them turning a corner before you cross the street.
One of the things that makes Mackinac Island special is the lack of automobiles (they have a firetruck, but not many others). Bikes rule. It was fun watching an ice cream delivery from a horse drawn wagon over breakfast.
The rains did come after we were safely back aboard and it rained heavily through the night and most of the next day.
I was glad it wasn’t our first trip to the island as we didn’t get off the boat to see much. The good thing about the rain was a switch in wind direction that allowed the bay to quiet down so that the only bounce came from the numerous ferries we watched from the back deck (with the heater running).
We did run out for breakfast and an early dinner at the Mustang Bar and Grill, the only year round restaurant on the island with a bit of history too.
Ferry leaving with us, much sunnier
Miles Today: 43 Total Miles: 2800
Leaving Baie Fine we headed west on our way out of the North Channel. We stopped for the afternoon at Little Current for another lunch at the Anchor Inn and a run up the hill for groceries, then cast off and headed back to anchored at Logan’s Bay for the night. If we hadn’t been following our track, I would have thought we found the wrong place as we were the only boat at anchor this time.
Sunrise as we leave Logan’s Bay
We knew we needed to make miles with a weather system approaching, so again with the alarm clock. Our original destination was Thessalon, but the day was good so we decided to keep going for an anchorage at Harbor Island north of Drummond Island. As this was in the US we needed to check in, but with two US and one Canadian phone and three cell providers(for Skype) we were not able to get through, nor were we able to get an anchor to hold (we actually caught a small log on one), so we braved the channel into Drummond Island Yacht Haven where the customs agent came to us on the dock. That was easy .
Miles Day 84: 20
Miles Day 85: 76 Total Miles: 2757
Miles Dat
Harbor Island across from Drummond Island
Vintage boat at Drummond Island
Vintage tractor, Drummond Island
Sunset at Drummond Island
After taking our leave of MacGregor Bay carefully following our track of the day before, we headed for Killarney. When we asked Alison and Rod about Killarney, they described it as a must see circus.
Killarney Cut
Killarney is a small cut between the mainland and George’s Island lined with marinas and slips. Our approach to the fuel dock certainly reinforced the circus like nature as over the radio the dockhand sounded like he was assigning us an inside slip which would have required negotiating a left around the fuel dock then a quick right into a slip with less turning room than I have in my living room, well maybe not, as there were already boats in there bigger than ours.
Sportsman’s Inn
Never mind we will pump out and fuel up first. This gave the fellow a chance to reconsider and assign us a more doable location. It also gave us a chance to put the dinghy back up.
Did I mention there were boats waiting in both directions as we sat in the channel trying to figure this out, and that the fuel dock was full?
We must have hit peak time of the day as the entertainment from the fuel dock never materialized as promised that afternoon.
We took a break from cooking and dishes and had lunch at the famed Red Bus, which is no longer a red bus, but a trailer. We had another beautiful day and ate our fish boxes on a picnic table overlooking the channel. Laundry and showers were in order before finding dinner at the hotel bar.
The next morning we were off to Baie Fine retracing our steps thru Fraser Bay and heading down the bay just adjacent to MacGregor. Baie Fine was on my list of must see spots right up there with The Benjamin’s and it did not disappoint. The last few miles are through a narrows. The chart said 5′ depth at the opening to the narrows and we were scouting places to anchor above this so we could take the dinghy back in to see The Pool at the end when we watched a sail boat and a looper, Tosca II, come out. We hailed Tosca and were advised there was no problem with depths and the anchorage was lovely back in The Pool. They were right. We had a peaceful night in a beautiful location.
Entrance to the Narrows
Wall of Baie Fine
The Pool
Mists on the Pool early in the morning
Rock island in Baie Fine.
Coming out the next morning we were asked the same question by another boat, turned out to be Average Looper traveling with Tom and Jan of Navigator, a couple we spent a few stops with in the Carolina’s and hope to meet up with again as we head down the coast of Lake Michigan.
Navigator heading into Baie Fine
Miles Day 82: 22
Miles Day 83: 22 Total Miles: 2661
We didn’t want a repeat of the day before since a preview of the charts showed that getting into the anchorage at MacGregor Bay at the east end of the North Channel was going to be anything but straight forward. It’s safe to say that we would never have attempted this by ourselves and Rod and Alison were willing to lead the way, so we were up bright and early with our radio on ready to go.
The first few hours were an up eventful run across Fraser Bay for the mouth of MacGregor Bay. Once inside we turned and headed east up the bay following the coast line with good water, no worries.
The scenery was reminiscent of our cruise through the Kawartha Lakes region on the Trent Severn with lovely cottages perched among the large granite outcroppings worn smooth by glacial action. We saw a few people out enjoying the day.
The bay has only been charted for a few years and even our 2013 Richardson’s chart book did not include the chart, luckily it was on the charting apps we both had. Luckily as well, we had Alison and Rod to follow as they knew where to turn and pick their way through the rocks and which of the many channels to pick to get us through the maze back to an incredibly lovely and extremely remote anchorage.
Boat spider webbed into a small cove.
We explored a bit by dinghy, having no luck finding any berries at all. Then agreed we had to get together for dinner as we would be departing in the morning leaving them to enjoy the peace on their own for a few days.
Dinner was again an enjoyable meal in spite of the thunder shower that rolled through as we were trying to cook on the grill. They graciously indulged my desire to experiment with making a cobbler on the barbecue with the wild berries we had collected at the Benjamin’s. It was a fitting celebration of the memories we’ve made together the last few days. Hopefully we will have a chance to cruise together again in the future.
Blueberry cobbler ala the grill.
We saw a family of six loons on our way out, I wasn’t fast enough with the camera to get them all.
Beautiful morning after the rain.
Miles today: 15
Travels of the Infinite Sea 