We knew the run to Deltaville was going to be a long one, so we were up early and underway about 7am. The first part of the run retraced the trip yesterday on our tour past Nauticus, several ports, and the Naval Base. This time we kept going, heading for the mouth of the Chesapeake.
Old Port Comfort Lighthouse just before entering the bay. Note the calm waters. It was too rough for us to find the New Point Comfort Lighthouse.
We had a strong north wind against us, so we knew it was not going to be Shangrilla. We were reminded of our first hour on the Albemarle Sound. The waves were not quite as tall, maybe 1-2 feet with peak waves at 4′ in height. Mind you these are not rolling ocean waves, but steep wind waves. That means they come one after another with no respite between. The bow rises, then plunges, rises, then plunges, unless of course they are hitting to the side of the boat, then you roll before the plunge.
We had anticipated rough seas today and had lashed moveable items before hitting the bay. We did have one casualty, one of the decorative starfish took the plunge and broke into a zillion pieces, I think it just couldn’t take any more. The duration of these seas was unprecedented, it wasn’t until we were nearly even with our destination, that we found some relief. It was tough for one of us just sitting as the cushions in the bridge are not attached. We will be fixing that when we are in port.
We had started to wonder why anyone would want to cruise the Chesapeake at all, that was until we entered Deltaville itself, truly charming.
The view from the bow docked at Zimmerman Marine.
Cute houseboats in Deltaville Harbor.
Miles Today: 58. Total Miles: 1096
States: 5
Locks: 7
The change of scenery from The Dismal Swamp Canal to Norfolk has been described as culture shock and it is.
Culture Shock coming out of Deep Creek.
Soon after leaving Deep Creek we were in a veritable jungle of industrial operations, big ships, swarming tugs, and train bridges, most of which are left open, but we ran into one that wasn’t. We waited with three other boats for the tanker cars to clear the line and the bridge to go up, the two big boats and their tugs waited patiently well back out of the mix, plenty of water, so really, no problem.
Closed railroad bridge just beyond high rise bridge. Two of the three boats we waited with can be seen here.
Two “big boys” waiting behind another open bridge for the railroad bridge to open.
Since we didn’t have to be to Deltaville (57 Miles, a days run) until Monday, we elected to stay in Norfolk at Waterside Marina and see the sights. Once in we found an empty Navigator waiting for the AGLCA Rendezvous, and were soon joined by My Therapy, a boat we knew from Legacy (although, we had thought they were green, come to find out they traded up).
Norfolk revitalized their water front in the mid 70’s replacing the industrial water side businesses with parks and businesses celebrating the river. They certainly succeeded in making an attractive waterside district.
Waterside Marina is the home of the Elizabeth River Ferry to Portsmouth, so we decided to see Portsmouth Friday night Inspite of the tornado watch. We targeted dinner and a show at the Commodore Theater. The theater was originally opened in 1945 and has been restored and updated by its current owners to include Dolby Surround Sound and a kitchen. A unique phone system allows you to place your order with the kitchen directly. The interior was lovely and true to its original Art Deco style including the original screen curtain which was mesmerizing as it glowed with an ever changing pallet of color.
The original Art Deco screen curtain with cool light show.
The theater wasn’t very busy for a Friday night, probably because most heeded the weatherman and stayed home. The worst of the rain had passed during the show (Transcedence, if you must know), and we walked the four blocks back to the ferry in our rain gear.
Saturday was a beautiful day. We found preparations underway for the NATO Parade as we walked two blocks to breakfast, The Captain pictured tanks, etc, and was all for watching until a search proved it would be a parade of the nations. So we stuck to the original plan which was to walk another block to Nauticus where we could see the USS Wisconsin, a decommissioned battleship and take a water tour of Norfolk including the naval yard.
The tour proved to be quite informative, Norfolk is home to the largest naval base in the world and certainly has a rich naval heritage.
USS Wisconsin, battleship
From USS New York scuttled in the Philippines to avoid capture.
Portsmouth is the first light ship. These were manned vessels which marked treacherous waters, not a duty many wanted.
By my count we passed 4 private companies doing renovation work on Navy vessels in the Hampton Roads (confluence of 4 rivers off Norfolk)
Aircraft carrier seen at the Norfolk Naval Base.
Cruise ship pulling in. We were already tired of sharing the Wisconsin with the hundreds of teenagers. Decided to hole up on the boat before this ship offloaded.
After running the crab pots at the end of the Ablemarle Sound coming into Elizabeth City, The Dismal Swamp Canal was a welcome respite. People either seem to love it or hate it. We were advised to do it at least once and at least one of us is glad we did.
If you love nature, history, or peace and quiet, you will love the Dismal Swamp Canal.
The area is a historic and nature preserve. It was the brain child of George Washington who had hoped to drain the swamp (known as a dismal in those days) and use the land for farming. The dismal once extended from the Albemarle Sound all the way to the Chesapeake Bay. Washington eventually gave up on the idea and sold his interest, but with the waterway it was feasible to harvest the cypress and pine. BY 1950 all the original trees had been cut and the land was abandoned until the preserve was created in the 70’s. Starting at Elizabeth City the area attracts invites boaters to experience the canal by providing free dockage at several points along the way.
The still water made for beautiful reflections all along the canal.
On the river before the canal there were some odd matts of vegetation.
What a difference from the stress of high seas we had first thing in the morning. We could count on one hand the number of boats we saw in the canal, no more watching for fast boats sneaking up and throwing a mean wake, in fact no wakes period for most of the run. And the water, it was so still you could see the green reflection of the trees lining either side of the canal. We saw River otter twice, but, sorry no pictures, saw turtles resting in the sun and could hear birds singing as we passed. It was truly beautiful.
The canal water levels are regulated by two locks, one at either end, we passed through the first at the 1:30 opening, but would not be able to make the other before the last opening of the day at 3:30, so we stopped at the NC visitor center and tied up right in front of Freedom another looper. We had time for a quick visit to the Dismal Swamp Museum across the river before they closed and got caught waiting for the last two boats of the afternoon to pass.
Infinite Sea in front of Freedom at the NC visitor center.
We calculated our departure time to coincide with the 11:00 opening of the last lock. This is the Deep Creek Lock and is known for its colorful lock master. True to form he provided cruising advise and played a little ditty on one of the conch shells from his collection. What a great end to a memorable cruise.
The Deep Creek Lock, those are conch shells lining the garden and path
The remaining few miles into Norfolk were a whole different story. That I will save for another day, we are planning to stay through Sunday then head up,to Deltaville where we have scheduled some follow up work to address our phantom electrical issues.
The houses have changed from the light colored, pastel, homes of the south to more austere New England style homes.
Mikes Today: 25 Total Miles: 1038
Total States: 5
Total Locks: 7
We left our anchorage in Campbell Creek at dawn and turned back onto Goose Creek for a short run to the Pamlico Sound. We had hoped to see fairly settled water first thing in the morning and with the winds dropping overnight, we did. We then headed up the Pungo River, passed Bell Haven and headed for the Aliigator Pungo cut. A twenty plus mile canal connecting the two rivers.
Geese flying with the rising sun as we left Campbell Creek.
Our first stowaway a pretty moth picked up on the Alligator Pungo cut or Goose Creek.
It was known for deadheads, logs floating just below the surface, so we spent a lot of time watching the water. The navigable channel was narrow as well, and once again, we came up on a barge. We had just 4.5 feet on the depth gauge as we passed him. We may have been lucky as we soon heard a sail boat we passed calling for a tow after they went hard aground on something under the water.
Another barge in skinny water.
The cut dropped us into the Alligator River which we took north heading into strong head winds. We worried that the wind gusts would cause the bridge just before our stop at Alligator River Marina to shut down. Luck was with us and we were thankful to turn left into the marina.
Alligator River Marina and Our Time already in.
The marina is well known for its colorful proprietor Miss Wanda and she gave a warm welcome. We decided to forgo cooking (and dishes) to have dinner in the diner.
We did not leave quite at first light, but soon after, again hoping to get on the big water, the Albemarle Sound early before it got too riled up. This didn’t work as well for us today. As we approached the sound, we found a grid of crab pots to wind our way through, a small temporary buoy marking the way around a recent shoal, waves approaching 2-3 feet (which means there is an occasional 6 footer in there) which made seeing both of the above difficult, and last but not least, a stowaway from Miss Wanda. You see she has Hummingbird feeders on the porch of the bath house. Well, unbeknownst to us one had found its way on the boat. It choose this time to come flying up in the captains face. I think it was his bright red jacket.
Perched, not willing to head out in the strong winds.
Really, in between perching this bird was flying around the helm.
Things were sliding around so much we thought our cooler/table/storage box would slide down the stairs. So, we lashed.
We do lash the deck furniture, but it still slid several feet.
We had become rather complacent about the sea practice of lashing items down. As the larger waves hit the boat, our seats, all the junk, I mean stuff, we had at the helm, the furniture on the back deck, etc. went sliding. Everything becomes more difficult in 4′ waves. Just maintaining a position requires effort. Between the bigger waves we managed to open windows. While we took sea spray and a cold wind, she would fly to the front window, but just hover facing the 20+ headwind, then take a perch. After an excruciating 10 or so minutes, she flew in front of me and I was able to contain her between my hands and direct her out the side door. Much as I would have liked to provide safe passage for our stowaway, the mental health of the Captain took priority.
Fortunately, as we headed north the waves diminished and eventually we were able to take stock of the damage below. Thankfully, the worst of it was the waves in our drinking water container which had sloshed over. We ended the day on a completely different note as we headed into the Dismal Swamp, but that will wait for tomorrow.
Miles Today: 51 Total Miles: 1013
Total States: 4
Total Locks: 6
As the yard had a boat splashing off our bow (being run down a rail back into the water after repairs) at 8am, we were off just before then headed for the Bogue Sound which we ran most of the morning without incident, it was a lovely view of tasteful development on the eastern shore and sand spit island to the west with views of highly developed outer banks beyond them.
We bypassed Oriental NC the day before and then ran through Moorehead and Beaufort today, both popular stops with cruisers, in order to gain miles north. Beaufort provided a good deal of hoopla in that it is a busy port. We watched a freighter head out, saw several pretty tugs, had to wait for a train bridge to open, then on the river just north of town saw a disabled boat our size being towed into a yard.
Freighter offloading steel in Beaufort, NC. We overheard a barge tender say they had a ten year contract to melt this down to make new.
Pretty Moran tugs.
Disabled vessel being towed into Marina north of Beaufort.
Unfortunately, outside of these two towns, there aren’t many options for tying up in a marina and a lot of our time was spent running down the middle of the very wide Neuse River (18 Miles at 8mph means about 2.5 hours). It can be a rough ride some days, but luckily for us the wind and waves were directly off our stern, so it was quite tranquil. In fact one of us took a short nap while the other drove for a change.
We ran 9 hours since it was such a nice day. At 4:30 we decided to stop before crossing the Pamlico River and leave that large body if water for first thing in the morning. Campbell Creek was identified as a popular anchoring spot with good protection in case of a threatened front, so we slowly picked our way through the crab pots hidden by the glare of the sun and set the anchor for the second time this trip.
Campbell Creek
Sun coming up as we headed for the crab pot field leaving Campbell Creek.
Miles Today: 65 Total Miles: 887
Total States: 4
Total Locks :5
Little red tug strayed from the channel
One word to describe the run north today, groundings. Perhaps it was the strong winds which made it dangerous to leave the autopilot in full control, maybe it was North Carolina’s notorious shoaling, or just bad luck.
For most of the morning we ran with a pack of boats due to the low bridge (20′) just beyond our marina, five boats were on the same schedule for the 8am opening. Two additional low bridges kept the group together for most of the day. Soon after the first bridge we heard a sailboat on the radio asking for a wake from a passing boat to give him a momentary lift to try to back off a shoal. Not long after that one of the boats in front of us went out of the channel and was asking for the same treatment. Generally it is courteous to slow down and avoid waking boats that are outside the channel. After the wake treatment, he was soon backing off the shoal back into the channel. Not long after this the larger vessel also bumped, but was able to keep going.
Getting a push off with a little wake
Needless to say we were vigilant ourselves in monitoring known trouble spots and staying in the channel for the rest of the day
Sailboat who had been aground awhile with his two help boats. Our wake and CJ behind us finally got him free.
In addition to groundings the bridges provided a challenge. One that only opened on the hour had us crawling to make the opening when just as it came into site 2 miles north, we saw it opening! I had called to verify after one of the other boats said he thought it opened on the half hour. He didn’t mention that he opened for commercial boats. ARGHHH
We did careful calculations for the next bridge and timed our arrival perfectly. Practice makes perfect.
Miles Today: 48 Total Miles: 822
Total States:4
Total Locks: 5
This one has been here awhile.
Grounding of another sort as we passed through camp Le Juene. These guys were training.
The weather finally cleared Saturday and the captain restrained himself and only asked twice why we stayed. The truth is it was recommended that we only run the Cape Fear River on mid to rising tide, between 7am and 9am. It did not stop raining until afternoon.
Boats in the fog after the rains stopped.
In any case one of us used the day to get a nap and one of us to do laundry. About 3:30 we decided to take a walk into town to see the nautical museum and have dinner. Wouldn’t you know it started raining on us, but we had our rain gear on, so on we went.
Paul takes the pilots wheel at the Southport Maritime Museum
My impression that Southport was a town serious about their boating was confirmed. The Cape Fear River and it’s infamous Frying Pan Shoals have been a challenge to navigation for hundreds of years and in addition to the seafood industry of so many coastal communities, piloting large vessels through the river has also been a serious business in Southport. In addition to a little piracy, of course.
After checking the radar and confirming no big thunder cells in the area, we decided to brace the winds at their lowest, first thing in the morning at cast off in a drizzle for a short run of 20 Miles to Wrightsville Beach.
Sand island between the river and the ocean.
Frying Pan where we had a nice dinner. Named after the light ship the used to mark the Frying Pan Shoals.
Southport
The contrast between our cruise along the Waccamaw River to Osprey Marina south of Myrtle Beach and the next days cruise through Myrtle Beach to SOuth Carolina could be more different. The first was through remote cypress swamps rarely interrupted by signs of human life, the second was a nearly steady stream of elaborate homes, golf courses, an outlet mall, and all the trappings of a thriving resort area through Myrtle Beach. Paul says that was good he saw enough.
Heading north at first light, this is the last of the wild swamp for awhile.
What was surprising to us was that north of Myrtle Beach the ICW moved close to the sea shore and at the numerous inlets to the ocean we were treated to spectacular views of dunes and sea shore.
One of the many inlets flanked by sandy dunes we crossed north of Myrtle Beach, lovely.
Just south of one of these inlets we got an advisory over the radio that a casino boat was due to leave. It was the Big M out of Fort Myers Beach, FL the same boat that had passed our stern as we were tied up at Pink Shell. He quickly passed us and headed out to sea.
We see another boat from Fort Myers.
The scenery was a good distraction from the worry as we passed through this area. Cut from rock to connect the waterways it was the first rocky stretch we have passed through. Stray from the channel and you may find serious damage done if you hit the bottom.
Lighthouse Marina entrance, the sign in the foreground says it all.
Buoy, and whale? graveyard along the ICW in Myrtle Beach.
We even saw this mermaid.
One of the stressors was the Little River Swing bridge which last week denied a boat an opening causing them to hit bottom in the current. We maneuvered ourselves right behind a commercial tug in the hopes we could squeak through with him (as a commercial vessel he gets priority for openings). No problem.
The Little River Swing Bridge, no problem for us.
We tied up in Southport at the Southport Marina largely because of the on site boat services from Zimmerman Marine which had been highly rated on Active Captain. It was time for an oil change and the logistics of doing it ourselves over the holiday weekend weren’t enticing. We had also had a few electrical issues which became more pronounced during the run in, so we asked them to take a look.
Their work made a second day necessary and a low pressure system in from the Gulf of Mexico is making us wait a third day. We hope tomorrow to head for Wrightsville Beach a short run north. No sense hurrying as the large sounds we have to cross will not be fun until the north winds stop on Tuesday.
Today’s Miles: 56 Total Miles: 754
Total States: 4
Total Locks: 5
Our day in Georgetown proved to be gloomy, but the front did not pass through until late n the evening. We were glad we were tied up because even so the boat was blown around by a strong wind off the stern.
Paul had take advantage of the day rest by moving the autopilot to a more convenient spot and checking the oil and transmission levels. I vacuumed, wrote the blog post (twice, on my knitting blog account- finally just posted it there but linked it here).
Gloves were needed after the cold front. Note the convenient new location of the autopilot.
After the storm there were 4 looper boats ready to leave. We were tucked in between two of them so left first early in the morning. Winyah Bay was quite rough after the front and we rocked and rolled until we entered the Waccamaw River. Good thing the water splashing over the bow was fresh not salt as it saved us a washdown at the end of the day.
The Waccahaw River was a lovely stretch and while it was cold (high forties with a stiff north wind) the sky was blue and the sun was out making for a pretty run. Our destination was a short 30 miles to Osprey Marina on the south end of the Myrtle Beach area.
They were quite busy when we arrived just after noon and called on the phone to say we wouldn’t be able to take the fuel dock but could tie up on a long face dock in the channel to wait.
It was a relief to turn into their wooded channel. It didn’t help that all four of us coming from Georgetown arrived at the same time. The wait couldn’t have been more pleasant though for us in the sun with no wind.
After a late lunch we finally put the covers I found in Beaufort over the bikes on the bow to protect them from salt spray. Hopefully, they will be easier to use up there.
We hung out on the bow in the sun watching a turtle who I swear was asking, “Are you my momma?”
We ended the evening with a pleasant docktail get together with Navigator, Panacea (Larry and Jan, not Kathy and Alan) and Allison Leigh who we first saw locking through at St. Lucie while we were tied up at the campground.
Next stop Southport on the other side of the infamous rock pile.
Todays Miles: 30 Total Miles: 698
States: 3
Locks: 5
After writing the post below twice and losing it, I found it here. Sorry for the non-knitting content, but it will kill me to do it again. For more adventures on the loop see https://cruisingwiththecarricos.wordpress.com
We spent our Sunday in Charleston. We got there by a three mile ride in the dinghy to the Charleston City Marina. The ride was pleasant in the early morning hours before the water way was crowded or the winds and waves kicked up. The city marina was huge, so big they use golf carts to run around the docks.
From the marina it was a long hike into downtown past the Coast Guard Station. We had been hoping to pick up the CARTA free bus, but decided a tour would be a better way to see the city. We found a nice market café for lunch and arranged for tickets on a horse drawn…
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Travels of the Infinite Sea 