The adventures of Paul and Stephanie aboard the MV Infinite Sea.

Monthly Archives: November 2014

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The looping gods laughed at us on our last day throwing out not random black crab pots, but floating coconuts. We have been well trained, they were given a wide berth.

We awoke to a light rain and some fog on our last day out.  A good excuse to stay at the dock a little longer and who needs an excuse when the dock is at the South Seas Resort?

But eventually the time came to cast off the lines and head out.  We were glad to be back in our home waters.  The ICW on this stretch is tricky and a little confusing with multiple channels heading off and a sharp 90 degree turn just before Sanibel as you curve back around Pine Island to the Okeechobee Waterway and the Caloosahatchee River.  The first time we ran this together we were in a little Hurricane deck boat and took so much white water our glasses were clouded and we started to head into Sanibel behind the big boat we were following.   That is when I told the Captain if he wanted to boat in Florida, it needed to be in a bigger boat.  Some people think he did this intentionally.

It turned into a sunny  warm day, forget what I have been saying about staying off the water on the weekend.  We saw a constant stream of boats running in and out of the river to the ICW.  Most were well behaved, there were just the two that decided to do circles in the channel in front of us while 4 more came at us.  Luckily the sport fish coming out slowed as he passed and when the Captain blew his horn and motioned he was coming through, they decided to move along.

Two on the right doing donuts as we approach the pack, WTF?

Two on the right doing donuts as we approach the pack, WTF?

Familiar sign post the stairstep roof line of High Point Place, Legacy is at the base.

Familiar sign post the stairstep roof line of High Point Place, Legacy is at the base.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As we neared our old slip we made out a greeting party complete with balloons.  Plenty of help to catch our lines.  It has been great to see familiar faces and catch up with old friends, but we are a little sad that the journey has come to an end.

Enthusiastic Welcome home, thanks Claudia and Lee.

Enthusiastic Welcome home, thanks Claudia and Lee.

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Ah, back to sunset boulevard.

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Miles Day 183: 19                             Total Miles: 5173Legacy Harbour Marina Stephanie and Paul Infinite Sea gold  loop

Total Locks: 111

Total States: 14


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The cut south of Venice, not the normal ICW we have come to love.

 

Not an auspicious start to our last day out.  We had decided to make one more stop, then run into Legacy before the next front hits and holes us up on the boat for 2 weather days.

Checking out the website of the Marker 4 restaurant at the marina said they had brunch on Saturday and Sunday starting at 8am.  The Captain likes his breakfasts out, so we put that on the list to start our day and headed up first thing, only to find an empty parking lot.

So, knowing the forecast was again for heavy winds and that they were more likely to be light early, we decided to cast off early (for us on this leg) and have breakfast underway.

 

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Beach on the north end of Cayo Costa, left for another trip.

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Ferry heading to Cabbage Key, we would have arrived at just the same time.

It was a scenic run once we got through the cut south of Venice, we crossed Lemon Bay, ran along Boca Grande, entered Gasparilla Sound then finally crossed Charlotte Harbor at the inlet.  It was a sunny warm day even with the wind.  The early start let us avoid some of the weekend idiots, but they were out in force as the noon hour approached, the price we pay for not sitting. Of course,  there was that one sportfisher who today slowed down to pass us, they are not all bad.

 

 

Last light house off Charlotte Harbor

Last light house off Charlotte Harbor

The highlight of the day, however, was a family of dolphins that joined us for a good period of time just off midship on the starboard side, I got my great dolphin shots.  I had given up, thinking it wasn’t going to happen.

 

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Yes, I am going to share all the good ones.

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There were two adults and one youngster. I like to think they are “teaching” the young how to safely interact with a boat.

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Here’s the little one doing one of his many rolls.

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Unofficially, we crossed our wake as we entered the ICW south of Charlotte Harbor.  Last September we picked up the Infinite Sea, then known as Kelmar from AA Storage just off Charlotte Harbor and moved her to Legacy.

Old ground from here on out.

Old ground from here on out.

As we ran we heard the South Sea’s Resort on the radio, we looked at each other and agreed it would be a nice way to celebrate the end of the trip of a life time.  Lucky for us they had a spot.  So, we bypassed Cayo Costa promising we would get there one day and Cabbage Key where we spent our first day on a boat in the area and headed a little farther than planned.

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This is living!

We were in and tied up by 3 which gave us some pool time before showers and an early dinner.  We certainly felt special stopping at this beautiful resort on Captiva Island, the long time playground of the reknowned.IMG_2942 DSCN2382

Miles Day 183: 23                       Total Miles: 5154


Cruising the loop is a balancing act.  There are the destinations; the ones you want to see, those suggested, those getting good reviews, those having or near services you need;  balanced with distances (traveling 7-8 mph can be limiting) and weather conditions.

Right now we are less than 100 miles from our starting/ending place, Fort Myers.  But we are in great cruising grounds and could stop every 10 miles at a nice place.  Unfortunately, the weather is limiting us, if we stop every 10 miles, it may take a month to get home with all the fronts coming through.

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This guy was flying and notice how little sail he has out! Even so he’s showing a little bottom paint.

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Just after I snapped this one came the one that got me all the way back of the boat.

So, we left today with a plan to bypass a few of the stops on the list. We had thought we’d stop in Sarasota.  There is the Ringling Brothers Circus museum and it’s another nice town.  A call to the marina about a mooring ball went to voice mail, three times.  By the time we hit Sarasota Bay it was clear the winds were more than we expected.  Weatherbug had them gusting to 24mph.  The northern end of the bay was kicking up white water over the bow.  The marina was on the southern end and much calmer, but we decided to just keep going and make some miles for a change.

The good news about the bay being kicked up was it kept the pleasure boaters home.  But we picked them up again at the Sarasota inlet just after the marina and kept them for the rest of the run.  One sportfisher in particular got the Idiot of the Day award for speeding up and cutting between us and another on coming boat in order to get to the marina.  The second near miss was a small sailboat from the Venice sailing school who escaped the supervision of his chase boat and decided to tack up the narrow channel, RIGHT IN FRONT OF US!!!  Add weekends to the balancing act.

This guy obviously was so green he didn't know he was tacking up the ICW with the big boys.

This guy obviously was so green he didn’t know he was tacking up the ICW with the big boys.  I  was below when the captain came to a complete stop.

Idiot of the Day goes to boat on the right.

Idiot of the Day goes to boat on the right.

Running in the wind is not a problem for us,, the problem only begins when it is time to stop.  Competent dock help is usually all that is required to insure a safe arrival.  Unfortunately, we had some confusion about the location of our marina which led us to overshoot it and come in flustered.  Good news is we got safely tied up and after an adult beverage, all is good.

A good hour was spent juggling weather reports, marinas, the desire to get to Cayo Costa.  With another front coming, we are considering just running home rather than waiting it out.  So, the current plan is either Cayo Costa or Cabbage Key tomorrow, Sunday, then Legacy, Monday, before the front, a couple days early, but tied up safely with a car which the Captain is missing more each day.

Miles Today: 37                      Total Miles: 5115

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Today was a day of bridges, lots of bridges, but only a couple we needed opened.

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Nice bridge tenders too, this fellow was out there with a joke and a smile.

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I don’t usually take pics of the nice houses along the way (there are too many), but put a pagoda out there and I will.

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Looking back toward Venice Inlet through one of the islands in the channel.

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Must be money around here if the sheriff rides around in a Donzi.

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We are getting used to this casual cruising style where we hang out in the morning before leaving because we are only traveling a few miles each day.  Again we made a late for us departure and stopped before leaving to add a little fuel, our first since the crossing.  With only just over a hundred miles left, we could make it to Fort Myers where fuel prices are pretty good, but we’d be running on fumes, so….

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Back out on Tampa Bay we felt the effects of the winds over the last few days, but soon turned so that we took most of the chop on our stern it was a good thing as we saw some almost 3’ waves in the bay.  Not much in the way of sun, so the pictures of the Sunshine Skyway are disappointing, but in some you can see the yellow cables.

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We both have family history in the area which has dictated some of our stops.  Bradenton is where my grandparents lived each winter for years.  It also has a nice downtown area on the river and a very nice marina a lot like Fort Myers which is why we considered it as a possible home base.  Right next door is a museum with planetarium which was on my must see list.

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Pink house and pink boat on the Manatee River.

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Pier 22 at Twin Dolphin Marina, very popular place, good food.

 

So, two nights it was.  The marina offered a package deal for a two night stay which included $20 off at Pier 22 and half off museum entrance.  Plus we would be there Saturday morning for the farmers market.  I think this is one of the first we have timed correctly on our loop.

 

 

 

 

 

The highlight was definitely the Southern Florida Museum, the planetarium showings were professional and well done, but not the star identifications that I love.  The highlight turned out to be the manatee exhibit.  They are a rehab facility with one manatee, Snooty, who has been in residence since 1952.  He is as old as the Captain and may live another 20 years!  They also take in manatees who need to gain weight before being released in the wild from hospital facilities.  Feedings were scheduled and an informative talk was given while Snooty was hand fed and the other two (under weight?) manatees grazed.  Before we left we sat and watched the manatees from the viewing window.  It was awe inspiring to watch these sea cows graze from just a few feet away, no view in the wild will ever compare.  It is sad that their life expectancy in the wild is just 13 years.

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Snooty is at the top with the handler. Notice the boxes of lettuce at right, that’s what these three eat every day.

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In order to avoid desensitizing the rehab manatees to humans and keep up the grazing instinct, their lettuce is stuffed into feeders like this pvc pipe.

 

Miles Day 180: 23                       Total Miles: 5078


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Big City, big marina, but oh so convenient.

Leaving Gulf Port and Boca Cieta Bay  it was just a few miles until we passed under a feeder bridge of the iconic Sunshine Skyway Bridge across Tampa Bay.  As it was hazy, I decided to save pictures for the next leg, hope I don’t regret it.

Tropicana Field, looks a little tilted from this angle.

Tropicana Field, looks a little tilted from this angle.

We turned up into Tampa Bay and ran a few more miles to St. Petersburg.  Once our course was set, I gave the marina a call only to hear they were full for Ribfest.  Okay, what about tomorrow?  That got me to the dockmaster.  Being Sunday I thought to ask about boats leaving in the afternoon (some people have to work, right?)  Sure enough, he found a mooring ball that had been vacated which we could take.

Well, there were more than a few empty by the time we arrived.  Ribfest sounded like a good place to get lunch, so we jumped in the dinghy and got checked in and wandered over, only to find that rather than a festival of ribs, it was a music festival and lunch would be pricy,  We had passed the historic Vinoy Hotel and I had told the Captain we had to wander through, so we headed back there for a cheaper lunch.  It is lovely and we had a great meal at the pool bar.

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Infinite Sea in the Vinoy Basin mooring field, good deal at $14/day. The historic Vinoy Hotel is in the back right.

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We could almost make out the music from the boat in the mooring field, and all the boats that had been in when we arrived seemed to be hovering off the park, which gave us the inspiration to jump in the dinghy and join them.    We could almost make out the words and had a good time people and boat watching before the sun went down and it got too cold to stay out.  It was a nice afternoon weather wise; the last we would see in St. Petersburg.

Watching the weather, we knew there was rain,  winds, and cold temperatures in store for the next few days.  If you have to be holed up for weather, St. Pete’s the place.  The trolley stop was just feet from the dinghy dock.  We ventured out to run errands Monday, post office, grocery, yarn shop (darn it, closed), timing it to get back just before the rain started.  And did it pour!!

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Another good dolphin shot.

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Next time buy a hawk, this owl doesn’t seem to cut it with the egrets.

 

The next day, Tuesday, we arranged to move to a dock so we could tie up and plug in as the temperatures were in the 40’s, that and the wind in the concrete basin was making the boat dance constantly.  We have been trouble shooting a coolant leak and decided to find an auto parts store for a pressure tester.  Sure enough we take the bus right across the street.  This time the yarn shop was open, so I dropped the Captain off for a beer while I headed in.  Dinner was a lucky find on the way back to the boat, Crowleys Irish Pub  for another Shepherd’s Pie taste test.

Wednesday was boat chore day, starting with laundry.   We determined that the pressure tester was not going to work, but did find a little drip, unfortunately, not coolant.  While the Captain returned the tester, the floors got a good washing.  Another trolley ride took us to a  movie and another wandering downtown found a second Irish Pub, McDinton’s.  For another Shepherd’s Pie taste test.

With a little sun and winds at only 10mph, Thursday was the day to make some miles, at least across the bay to Bradenton and Twin Dolphins Marina.

Miles Day 175: 15                       Total Miles: 5055

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The pier which is closed at this time.

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At the recommendation of Lori and Mike we put Gulfport on the list of stops.  It wasn’t long after we left the dock that we realized we were violating one of the looper rules, that is; “Thou shall not travel on a weekend”.

Sailing school Saturday

Sailing school Saturday

There were a lot of boats out in the ICW, boats of all kinds, some fast, most were considerate, a few waked us.  but with weather and calendar considerations, we decided to get a move on anyway.

 

Our first reaction was to slow down for these guys until the requested a wake.  We did what we could.

Our first reaction was to slow down for these guys until the requested a wake. We did what we could.

 

Twenty four miles of continuous development put us into Boca Ciega Bay and the Gulfport Municipal Marina.  IMG_2698 IMG_2697

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The birds know the drill here. The net out, they come, someone in the bait tank, they’re there too.

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Boca Ciega Bay

We relaxed after getting the boat tied up and checked in.  We decided to mosey on downtown for dinner.  The area of Gulfport we walked through was mostly older homes, circa the 50’s some of which exhibit quite a bit of character.

It was Artwalk weekend and the 25th anniversary of OMaddy’s, so there was a lot going on and people everywhere.  After checking out all the live music along the water front and the stalls down the main drag, we settled on Neptune’s Bar and Grill where Hector was playing.  Hector looked like a scruffy Cheech Marin and had sounds that probably drove his teachers nuts, but he could sing and was adorable with his toe ring, so I’m sure they forgave him.  It was one of the better meals and the drinks were cheap.  To top it all off the downtown businesses have arranged for rides on demand in souped up golf carts, so we didn’t even have to hike back to the boat.

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Miles Today: 24        Total Miles: 5040


DSCN2311Our second day at anchor dawned lovely, we took advantage and got some boat chores done.  One of us washed the eisenglass up top while the other cleaned the water line.  We collapsed just before lunch and as we ate, we watched the crew from Average Looper cruise in for the afternoon.

As we explored the north end of the cay, the skies started to darken a little.  The forecast was calling for 20mph winds over night.  While we would probably have been alright, Infinite Sea has the wind profile of a big rig and we decided we’d sleep better tied up.  So, up came the anchors and off we went to Clearwater Beach Marina a short 11 miles down the ICW.

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Clearwater also had access to the Jolleytrolley to Tarpon Springs.  It was chilly and windy, but not aboard the trolley.  We wound around downtown Clearwater, Dunedin and Tarpon Springs then got off at the Sponge Docks.  We didn’t find the mermaids mom remembers but after a quick lunch over looking the docks, we took a short boat ride up the channel and listened to an old timer describe the sponging industry.  I didn’t know they harvested from the entire gulf or that the sponges grew back in a couple of years after being cut off.

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We were able to make a stop in at Publix before catching the final trolley back to the marina, we stayed aboard and got a great view of the beach from the comfort of the trolley.  There was no one at the beach it was just too cold.

Before taking off the next morning we did a quick load of laundry.  Next stop, Gulfport at Lori and Mike’s recommendation.

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Miles Day 172: 11         Total Miles: 5016


So as we limped in to Dunedin, exhausted, we watched two boats from the first group, Blue Angel and Priorities, head into a sunny sandy anchorage and thought, “That’s nice.”  Paula from Ocean Breeze says Jim knows all the good anchorages and I think she may be right.

So, when we found the JolleyTrolley to Tarpon Springs and Clearwater wouldn’t run until Friday, we started to think about that anchorage.  The weather report said warm with steady winds until Friday.  Off we went backtracking 5 miles, generally we don’t like to go backwards, but we thought this was an acceptable excuse.

We took the time to have a good breakfast off the boat and chat with a few friends before casting off and arrived just about lunch time.  I’ll share a few pictures then get back to enjoying the peace and quiet.

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This Google satellite view of us in our anchor alarm program, Sailsafe, says it all.

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I didn’t get the guy who said hi right next to me, but I got these guys who cruised through.

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Miles Day 171: 5                 Total Miles: 5005

 


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Our buddy boat, Charis, heading out to the Gulf crossing.

So we cast off our lines just before two and headed out the river behind Charis, our buddy boat.  Blue Willow and Patriot were chugging up from Apalachicola and met us  as we reached East Pass, so we formed a group of four boats heading across together.

The seas were flat as we started out.  We decided a rough schedule of shifts with the understanding that naps would be taken between shifts.  The Captain started out napping as soon as we were safely out of the channel and the group was set.  It was a pleasant quiet few hours.  I did wonder that the group was so quiet, but then it was light out and we really didn’t need to communicate, so I enjoyed the silence.  Come to find out the Captain had turned the radio down, our buddy boat knew the napper was on channel nine, but elected not to wake him as long as we seemed to be doing fine and it was light out.

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Blue Willow in the sunset, we had a little chop early on which settled down before dark.

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We had a dinner of the chicken I had made before we left the dock before the sunset, then it was my turn to nap.  I waited until dark thinking that would help and it did.  I woke to more seas and an impending moon rise and brewed a pot of coffee for my second shift.

The night passed pleasantly with relatively warm temperatures, the moon light, and a sky of stars.  The seas did increase as we moved along, but they were on the stern and spaced out comfortably.  We did experience a new motion on the boat.  I am calling this one the ballerina.  Just before dawn we had the largest seas maybe the occasional five footer with a little confusion which caused the boat to go up on tip toes and turn slightly as she came back down.  The most comfortable place was in bed which supported good napping.   That is until the Captain felt like he was being thrown out of bed.

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Spiritus had led the pack all night, Eddy our weather guru called it well and we all appreciate having his guidance.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Even though we started out as three well spaced groups, timing it to hit the crab pots in the day light put us into a clump coming in.  You can see the boats with AIS identification on the left by the triangles, on the right, radar, the yellow blips are boats without AIS.

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Through the Dunedin Honeymoon Island Bridge, almost there.

 

The longest stretch was by far the run in the ICW to Dunedin.  After the sun rose we spent a few hours on crab pot watch which kept us on our toes and awake, but after that we could feel the exhaustion.  We got in around noon, tied up the lines, headed for lunch and a cold beer, then it was nap time.

 

 

 

 

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Frenchy’s fish tacos (and shrimp) were on special $3 and a cold beer, good deal.

Loopers being the social creatures that we are decided that 11 boats making the crossing to Dunedin on the 11th was a good reason to celebrate and a good crowd gathered to rehash the night and say good bye until we meet again before we turned in early.

Miles Day 169: 193         Total Miles: 5000 (well it adds to 4999, but with the crawl through the crab pots we’re rounding up)


So, the run down from Apalachicola to Carabelle was dreary, the sun was fully hidden behind a thick veil of clouds.  I didn’t have much inspiration to take many pictures as we ran inside behind St. George Island.  I did get a few of Apalachicola as we headed out.

Cute house boat up the municipal marina in Apalachicola

Cute house boat up the municipal marina in Apalachicola

Gazebo off Apalachicola

Gazebo off Apalachicola

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

At Dog Island we turned and headed up the Carrabelle River.  Dog Island had some lovely homes.  Talking with the breakfast cook here at The Moorings (they provide a breakfast for the hotel and boats- free!), there are a handful of fulltime residents out there.  No bridge, no cars, no stores, although if you forget something, the local Sea Tow guy will ferry it out for you.  Must be nice.

Dog Island and East Pass just west of the island where we will be heading out on to the Gulf

Dog Island and East Pass just west of the island where we will be heading out on to the Gulf

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Carrabelle is another quaint fishing village, if you like that kind of thing (and I DO!!)  The gas is cheap and a good deal on slips if you fill up.  We had quite an adventure getting the boat into the slip.  The boat is 13.5′, the slip 14′ wide, the finger docks are only on one side and SHORT.  Plus there is a current drawing you off sides as you back in.  Luckily there was no wind.

We had waited lunch and once we were securely fastened, I informed the Captain he was buying me lunch as someone needed time to unwind.  Lunch was good and once we were back we got the water and electric hooked up, talked with the loopers on Navigator and Average Looper who were already in, and washed the boat.  The father and son who had caught our lines at Bobbie’s Fish Camp were in too.  Second son was with them and they were planning to move across to Tarpon Springs this leg.  They came by to use the computer to update their chartplotter and we had a good visit while we waited on the marina internet.

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The next day several more boats floated in, we helped Our Last Boat IX (love the name) shoe horn into their slip.  Charis also arrived. It was decided to do docktails in the Captain’s Lounge and a couple boats from the marina next door, Spiritus and Aunt Aggie,  wandered down.  Eddy on Spiritus is the new weather guru for the AGLCA, so everyone was anxious to know when he was planning to cross.  It was a fun gathering.  I hope we continue to enjoy boaters as friendly and fun as the group we have found doing the loop.

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We decided to try out the motel breakfast this morning after reading Eddy’s Weather Wag (wild ass guess), which said wait and see.  Sure enough we had a breakfast pow wow with weather as the number one topic.  Most of us were leaning toward going.  We got a call from Blue Willow and from Aunt Aggie, Aunt Aggie was talking with Eddye and it sounded like  they were leaning that way too.

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The day was filled with waiting (can’t leave too soon or you may hit a crab pot near shore on the other side), discussing plans, checking systems, etc.  Once this is posted, we should be heading out in about an hour.  I will post from “the other side” once we get there.

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Infinite Sea waiting patiently for the crossing at The Moorings in Carrabelle.

Miles Day 165: 25          Total Miles: 4806