The morning we left West End I filled the water tank and rinsed the dinghy while the guys went for ice. Look who showed up for a drink.
Awesome!
So, my last post was reporting our crossing to West End, in the Abacos of the Bahamas. As we were unable to get a sim card for our phone or the mifi we had purchased at any of our stops access, to the internet was limited until our western most stop in Marsh Harbor. Then the card worked in the phone, but not the mifi, and unfortunately, once in Marsh Harbor, we found an appointment scheduled which necessitated an immediate departure, so…..
It was a good end to our cruising season and we were both glad we made the jump. The long trek (@ 120 miles) across the Bahama Bank was long in our slow boat, next trip we’ll try a stop at Spanish Cay instead of a second anchorage to break up the monotony. We did eventually find the beautiful beaches we sought once we crossed “The Whale” and hope to get farther than Marsh Harbor as we missed a few must see stops.
Since we have committed to leading the long cruise next May for the Cape Coral Cruise Club, I do feel I owe some pictures at least to wrap this up and preview our return, so below are a select few.
It was two days of anchoring to get across the Bahamas bank. Scenery was blue seas and scrub islands mostly. One highlight, breakfast on the BBQ.
Beautiful sunsets even on the bank. This one came after we watched a storm complete with a water spout pass west of us as we anchored.
Running with a buddy boat broke some of the monotony. Patriyatchik is another President motor yacht.
Biggest disappointment of the bank was having fellow loopers on Last Mango sail by. Had hoped to catch up with them.
First civilized stop was Green Turtle Cay, nice resort with pool, good restaurant, we dinghied over to New Plymouth for lunch.
Green Turtle Cay is a good place to wait for a calm sea to head out into the Atlantic to go around Whale’s Cay. We didn’t hear any bad reports in our week, but then we left before Anna developed.
Our first stop after the Whale in the Sea of Abaco was Great Guana Cay. We took a ball off Grabbers.
They organized a potluck at Grabbers our first night and we caught another nice sunset.
The next day we ventured out to Nippers. Wow!
The beach in front of Nippers is down a tall set of stairs, but worth the climb.
We had heard they had a good Batelco store in Treasure Cay, so we made that our next stop.
Batelco was closed for upgrading, but the beach and the resort were spectacular!
Nest and last stop was Marsh Harbor, the biggest settlement in the Abacos. We saw some rain and caught up with friends from Ocean Breeze.
Conch pile. Conch was the biggest bargain on the menu at most restaurants being locally sourced. Side product is piles of discarded shells. Saw one sign along the road: Private Dock, no parking or dumping of shells.
Nice view of Marsh Harbor!
Entering Lake Worth on a nice Friday, oh my….
Our day at Old Port Cove Marina accomplished several last minute tasks like troubleshooting the Captains cell phone (which he uses for anchor alarm and back up navigation) which wouldn’t charge, last minute grocery run, and laundry.
Thanks to Carolyn on Patriyachtik who has the same phone we were able to deduce that only a new charging cord was needed, whew! And thanks to a helpful shuttle driver from the marina he was able to find one while I did the grocery shopping.
We intended to anchor out just off the Lake Worth Inlet Friday night, but as the winds picked up we opted to tie up at Riviera Beach. Coming into the main lake basin we were all a little overwhelmed by the hoopla. It wasn’t’ long before we decided we needed to join in and the afternoon was spent at Peanut Island where we gave the dinghies their final pre-departure check out.
It was agreed to leave at first light about 6:30. The Captains had a tough night sleeping anticipating the departure. I wish I could say the worst of it was the trip out the inlet where the seas were backing up and coming fast while we negotiated the channel with a massive freighter, but the rest of the journey was rough, and long. About 70 miles, a lot of it in seas where you just had to hang on. The gulf stream and the waves were at odds making it an unsettled sea which kept us churning. It didn’t look as fierce as the Ablemarle Sound did, but it was relentless and we had water back up in our sinks (no damage, just uck), so it must have been big. Of course as uncomfortable as it was, we were never in danger as long as we stayed in our seats. And there were never less than 3 vessels within sight, we had regular check ins with our buddy boat Patriyachtik and listened to them check in with a Defever group they had met while waiting to cross.
The seas finally calmed just 15 miles from the island and we enjoyed an escort in from squadrons of flying fish. The journey was not so terrible we couldn’t enjoy the beautiful deep blue of the clear ocean water or the lovely aqua reflected in the clouds above the Bahama Bank once we got close enough to see land.
Miles Day 7: 4 Crossing miles day 8: 70
Weather: Warm and sunny, south winds about 11mph
This captain was the last in and first out, he backed out of the narrow channel before turning around. Glad we were in early.
Another early start, but one that didn’t need to be. I had called Port Mayaca Lock just before they closed for the day the night before to confirm their locking schedule since they are repairing manatee screens and have just 3 openings a day. The fellow who answered told me they would be on demand, meaning whenever you get here.
Well, Jim Healy called at 7:00 and we called on our way across the lake and got only an 11:30 opening. So, the upside was we got great sunrise shots (we left anyway having already prepared the boat) and with a headwind our slow speed didn’t make for the extremely hot crossing we had last year.
Is it just me? I always wonder if they will get the bridge working when I see them repairing it.
Bridge closures seemed to be the theme of this run. The bridge immediately after the lock was down with a repair crew on the top of the bridge. We idled for about 10 minutes waiting for it to go up. Interestingly enough, there were very few birds to be found on the east side of the lake.
Another short wait at the St. Lucie lock then a run into the St. Lucie River. A stop we didn’t make last year was Sunset Bay Marina where we took a mooring ball (preparation for the Bahamas). They have an extensive mooring field.
Sunset from Sunset Bay mooring field.
Manatee Pocket, I am starting to use the Waterway Guide on line fuel pricing to source the best prices for diesel.
Off a little later the next morning. Continuing in the path taken last year with a detour into Manatee Pocket for cheap diesel at Mariners Cay Marina. Then soon after we were in new territory (to us anyway) heading south on the ICW.
It was a beautiful day with a run through some exquisite waterway, Hobe Sound, Jupiter, then into Lake Worth where we turned north to Old Port Cove Marina to meet up with a looping couple we plan to cross to the Bahamas with.
It was sweet to see the water turn to turquoise with white sand beaches. Something we hope to see a lot more of.
Lake Worth
Miles Day 5: 53 Day 6: 26
Weather: Warm and sunny, south winds about 11mph
Just like old times, leaving at sunrise.
The alarm was set for a relatively early start. We cast off and headed east. Hoping to get as far as the west side of Lake Okachobee, but in no hurry.
The river was quiet and the scenery interesting and pretty in parts. Ortona Lock was waiting for us and we rose 8 feet. A call to Indiantown confirmed they were busy and we won’t know if they have a spot for us tomorrow night until the morning. A call to Roland Martin in Clewiston confirmed they had a spot for us. We missed stopping here on the loop transit and figured we should check this much discussed marina out. The Captain likes a good tiki bar and they are known for theirs.
The only glitch of the day was the railroad bridge in Moore Haven right before the lock. It is usually open, but not today, a crew was working on it and we idled in the wind for 10-15 minutes before it finally opened.
I hate a closed bridge with no tender or opening schedule.
The rest of the days run was on the rim canal along the western edge of the lake. The bird life was abundant. I set a goal to get only bird action shots having a slew of birds by the waterway pictures.
The marina is a face dock in a narrow channel behind a “hurricane gate”. The gate was open and we were in early enough to have an easy time docking. The dock filled by nightfall and the last boats in were typically squeezing between a couple already there.
We were met on the dock by Bob a fellow looper we first met in Mackinaw City and have bumped into along the way. He is waiting on parts and working his way through the tiki bar menu without complaints. He stopped by to invite us for dinner with a couple he cruised the Chesapeake with, Peg and Jim Healy on Sanctuary. We had heard them on the radio following us and I thought the boat sounded familiar. Jim posts frequently on several of the lists we follow. It was nice to put a face and some background with the name over dinner. Of course we picked their brain about stops in the Abacos in the Bahamas and got a few other gems as well.
Tomorrow’s path.
Sanctuary behind us.
Miles Today: 47
Weather: Warm, windy, partly cloudy
Leaving Legacy
When we completed the Loop back in November, it was our intention to stay close to the dock for the rest of the season before the Infinite Sea went on the hard for the season. But always on our mind was, “What’s next?”
We tossed around the idea of cruising the Caribbean after the crew of Front Page returned with tales of their adventure and started doing some research. But clearly that was a few years off and the question we couldn’t answer was, how would we adapt to weeks on the hook without TV or Internet?
When the Captain proposed we try it out by cruising to the Bahamas before putting the boat on the hard, who was going to say no? Certainly not me!
So the date was set and preparations made. The boat was ready having been prepared for the loop a few minor mechanical questions reviewed with the mechanic, the oil changed. A months worth of meat and non perishable staples loaded aboard (tough after spending a few months trying to pare down the lockers).
Then the night before our departure the Captain is writhing in pain…… A night in the ER kills the pain and nets us a diagnosis of a kidney stone. To go, or not to go???
After consulting with the urologist we evaluated. The pain was gone, the stone was small and almost to the bladder at the ER, it may be gone or it may move again. We have a week before weather allows us to cross. No sense sitting on the couch, there are doctors in Stuart too if necessary.
Interesting boat heading west. Looks like sailing hull with electric retrofit, speculation is electric powered as this is way more solar panels than what you’d need for the appliances.
Alligator seen in the river below the lock (in brackish water) unusual.
So we are off, first stop Hidden Island near Alva, FL. 20 miles east on the Okachobee Waterway. We are glad to have a chance to say goodbye to our friends from the Cape Coral Cruise Club and then enjoy this serene island for a few restful days before moving on.
View from our back deck at dinner, serene.
Miles: 19
Weather: Sunny, hot, highs near 90
The looping gods laughed at us on our last day throwing out not random black crab pots, but floating coconuts. We have been well trained, they were given a wide berth.
We awoke to a light rain and some fog on our last day out. A good excuse to stay at the dock a little longer and who needs an excuse when the dock is at the South Seas Resort?
But eventually the time came to cast off the lines and head out. We were glad to be back in our home waters. The ICW on this stretch is tricky and a little confusing with multiple channels heading off and a sharp 90 degree turn just before Sanibel as you curve back around Pine Island to the Okeechobee Waterway and the Caloosahatchee River. The first time we ran this together we were in a little Hurricane deck boat and took so much white water our glasses were clouded and we started to head into Sanibel behind the big boat we were following. That is when I told the Captain if he wanted to boat in Florida, it needed to be in a bigger boat. Some people think he did this intentionally.
It turned into a sunny warm day, forget what I have been saying about staying off the water on the weekend. We saw a constant stream of boats running in and out of the river to the ICW. Most were well behaved, there were just the two that decided to do circles in the channel in front of us while 4 more came at us. Luckily the sport fish coming out slowed as he passed and when the Captain blew his horn and motioned he was coming through, they decided to move along.
Two on the right doing donuts as we approach the pack, WTF?
Familiar sign post the stairstep roof line of High Point Place, Legacy is at the base.
As we neared our old slip we made out a greeting party complete with balloons. Plenty of help to catch our lines. It has been great to see familiar faces and catch up with old friends, but we are a little sad that the journey has come to an end.
Enthusiastic Welcome home, thanks Claudia and Lee.
Ah, back to sunset boulevard.
Miles Day 183: 19 Total Miles: 5173
Total Locks: 111
Total States: 14
The cut south of Venice, not the normal ICW we have come to love.
Not an auspicious start to our last day out. We had decided to make one more stop, then run into Legacy before the next front hits and holes us up on the boat for 2 weather days.
Checking out the website of the Marker 4 restaurant at the marina said they had brunch on Saturday and Sunday starting at 8am. The Captain likes his breakfasts out, so we put that on the list to start our day and headed up first thing, only to find an empty parking lot.
So, knowing the forecast was again for heavy winds and that they were more likely to be light early, we decided to cast off early (for us on this leg) and have breakfast underway.
Beach on the north end of Cayo Costa, left for another trip.
Ferry heading to Cabbage Key, we would have arrived at just the same time.
It was a scenic run once we got through the cut south of Venice, we crossed Lemon Bay, ran along Boca Grande, entered Gasparilla Sound then finally crossed Charlotte Harbor at the inlet. It was a sunny warm day even with the wind. The early start let us avoid some of the weekend idiots, but they were out in force as the noon hour approached, the price we pay for not sitting. Of course, there was that one sportfisher who today slowed down to pass us, they are not all bad.
Last light house off Charlotte Harbor
The highlight of the day, however, was a family of dolphins that joined us for a good period of time just off midship on the starboard side, I got my great dolphin shots. I had given up, thinking it wasn’t going to happen.
Yes, I am going to share all the good ones.
There were two adults and one youngster. I like to think they are “teaching” the young how to safely interact with a boat.
Here’s the little one doing one of his many rolls.
Unofficially, we crossed our wake as we entered the ICW south of Charlotte Harbor. Last September we picked up the Infinite Sea, then known as Kelmar from AA Storage just off Charlotte Harbor and moved her to Legacy.
Old ground from here on out.
As we ran we heard the South Sea’s Resort on the radio, we looked at each other and agreed it would be a nice way to celebrate the end of the trip of a life time. Lucky for us they had a spot. So, we bypassed Cayo Costa promising we would get there one day and Cabbage Key where we spent our first day on a boat in the area and headed a little farther than planned.
This is living!
We were in and tied up by 3 which gave us some pool time before showers and an early dinner. We certainly felt special stopping at this beautiful resort on Captiva Island, the long time playground of the reknowned.
Miles Day 183: 23 Total Miles: 5154
Cruising the loop is a balancing act. There are the destinations; the ones you want to see, those suggested, those getting good reviews, those having or near services you need; balanced with distances (traveling 7-8 mph can be limiting) and weather conditions.
Right now we are less than 100 miles from our starting/ending place, Fort Myers. But we are in great cruising grounds and could stop every 10 miles at a nice place. Unfortunately, the weather is limiting us, if we stop every 10 miles, it may take a month to get home with all the fronts coming through.
This guy was flying and notice how little sail he has out! Even so he’s showing a little bottom paint.
Just after I snapped this one came the one that got me all the way back of the boat.
So, we left today with a plan to bypass a few of the stops on the list. We had thought we’d stop in Sarasota. There is the Ringling Brothers Circus museum and it’s another nice town. A call to the marina about a mooring ball went to voice mail, three times. By the time we hit Sarasota Bay it was clear the winds were more than we expected. Weatherbug had them gusting to 24mph. The northern end of the bay was kicking up white water over the bow. The marina was on the southern end and much calmer, but we decided to just keep going and make some miles for a change.
The good news about the bay being kicked up was it kept the pleasure boaters home. But we picked them up again at the Sarasota inlet just after the marina and kept them for the rest of the run. One sportfisher in particular got the Idiot of the Day award for speeding up and cutting between us and another on coming boat in order to get to the marina. The second near miss was a small sailboat from the Venice sailing school who escaped the supervision of his chase boat and decided to tack up the narrow channel, RIGHT IN FRONT OF US!!! Add weekends to the balancing act.
This guy obviously was so green he didn’t know he was tacking up the ICW with the big boys. I was below when the captain came to a complete stop.
Idiot of the Day goes to boat on the right.
Running in the wind is not a problem for us,, the problem only begins when it is time to stop. Competent dock help is usually all that is required to insure a safe arrival. Unfortunately, we had some confusion about the location of our marina which led us to overshoot it and come in flustered. Good news is we got safely tied up and after an adult beverage, all is good.
A good hour was spent juggling weather reports, marinas, the desire to get to Cayo Costa. With another front coming, we are considering just running home rather than waiting it out. So, the current plan is either Cayo Costa or Cabbage Key tomorrow, Sunday, then Legacy, Monday, before the front, a couple days early, but tied up safely with a car which the Captain is missing more each day.
Miles Today: 37 Total Miles: 5115
Today was a day of bridges, lots of bridges, but only a couple we needed opened.
Nice bridge tenders too, this fellow was out there with a joke and a smile.
I don’t usually take pics of the nice houses along the way (there are too many), but put a pagoda out there and I will.
Looking back toward Venice Inlet through one of the islands in the channel.
Must be money around here if the sheriff rides around in a Donzi.
We are getting used to this casual cruising style where we hang out in the morning before leaving because we are only traveling a few miles each day. Again we made a late for us departure and stopped before leaving to add a little fuel, our first since the crossing. With only just over a hundred miles left, we could make it to Fort Myers where fuel prices are pretty good, but we’d be running on fumes, so….
Back out on Tampa Bay we felt the effects of the winds over the last few days, but soon turned so that we took most of the chop on our stern it was a good thing as we saw some almost 3’ waves in the bay. Not much in the way of sun, so the pictures of the Sunshine Skyway are disappointing, but in some you can see the yellow cables.
We both have family history in the area which has dictated some of our stops. Bradenton is where my grandparents lived each winter for years. It also has a nice downtown area on the river and a very nice marina a lot like Fort Myers which is why we considered it as a possible home base. Right next door is a museum with planetarium which was on my must see list.
Pink house and pink boat on the Manatee River.
Pier 22 at Twin Dolphin Marina, very popular place, good food.
So, two nights it was. The marina offered a package deal for a two night stay which included $20 off at Pier 22 and half off museum entrance. Plus we would be there Saturday morning for the farmers market. I think this is one of the first we have timed correctly on our loop.
The highlight was definitely the Southern Florida Museum, the planetarium showings were professional and well done, but not the star identifications that I love. The highlight turned out to be the manatee exhibit. They are a rehab facility with one manatee, Snooty, who has been in residence since 1952. He is as old as the Captain and may live another 20 years! They also take in manatees who need to gain weight before being released in the wild from hospital facilities. Feedings were scheduled and an informative talk was given while Snooty was hand fed and the other two (under weight?) manatees grazed. Before we left we sat and watched the manatees from the viewing window. It was awe inspiring to watch these sea cows graze from just a few feet away, no view in the wild will ever compare. It is sad that their life expectancy in the wild is just 13 years.
Snooty is at the top with the handler. Notice the boxes of lettuce at right, that’s what these three eat every day.
In order to avoid desensitizing the rehab manatees to humans and keep up the grazing instinct, their lettuce is stuffed into feeders like this pvc pipe.
Miles Day 180: 23 Total Miles: 5078
Big City, big marina, but oh so convenient.
Leaving Gulf Port and Boca Cieta Bay it was just a few miles until we passed under a feeder bridge of the iconic Sunshine Skyway Bridge across Tampa Bay. As it was hazy, I decided to save pictures for the next leg, hope I don’t regret it.
Tropicana Field, looks a little tilted from this angle.
We turned up into Tampa Bay and ran a few more miles to St. Petersburg. Once our course was set, I gave the marina a call only to hear they were full for Ribfest. Okay, what about tomorrow? That got me to the dockmaster. Being Sunday I thought to ask about boats leaving in the afternoon (some people have to work, right?) Sure enough, he found a mooring ball that had been vacated which we could take.
Well, there were more than a few empty by the time we arrived. Ribfest sounded like a good place to get lunch, so we jumped in the dinghy and got checked in and wandered over, only to find that rather than a festival of ribs, it was a music festival and lunch would be pricy, We had passed the historic Vinoy Hotel and I had told the Captain we had to wander through, so we headed back there for a cheaper lunch. It is lovely and we had a great meal at the pool bar.
Infinite Sea in the Vinoy Basin mooring field, good deal at $14/day. The historic Vinoy Hotel is in the back right.
We could almost make out the music from the boat in the mooring field, and all the boats that had been in when we arrived seemed to be hovering off the park, which gave us the inspiration to jump in the dinghy and join them. We could almost make out the words and had a good time people and boat watching before the sun went down and it got too cold to stay out. It was a nice afternoon weather wise; the last we would see in St. Petersburg.
Watching the weather, we knew there was rain, winds, and cold temperatures in store for the next few days. If you have to be holed up for weather, St. Pete’s the place. The trolley stop was just feet from the dinghy dock. We ventured out to run errands Monday, post office, grocery, yarn shop (darn it, closed), timing it to get back just before the rain started. And did it pour!!
Another good dolphin shot.
Next time buy a hawk, this owl doesn’t seem to cut it with the egrets.
The next day, Tuesday, we arranged to move to a dock so we could tie up and plug in as the temperatures were in the 40’s, that and the wind in the concrete basin was making the boat dance constantly. We have been trouble shooting a coolant leak and decided to find an auto parts store for a pressure tester. Sure enough we take the bus right across the street. This time the yarn shop was open, so I dropped the Captain off for a beer while I headed in. Dinner was a lucky find on the way back to the boat, Crowleys Irish Pub for another Shepherd’s Pie taste test.
Wednesday was boat chore day, starting with laundry. We determined that the pressure tester was not going to work, but did find a little drip, unfortunately, not coolant. While the Captain returned the tester, the floors got a good washing. Another trolley ride took us to a movie and another wandering downtown found a second Irish Pub, McDinton’s. For another Shepherd’s Pie taste test.
With a little sun and winds at only 10mph, Thursday was the day to make some miles, at least across the bay to Bradenton and Twin Dolphins Marina.
Miles Day 175: 15 Total Miles: 5055
The pier which is closed at this time.
Travels of the Infinite Sea 